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| Powerglide 2 speed Automatic , Direct Drive |
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| The Powerglide is a favorite of racers because of its low rotating mass and parts availability |
The transmission I chose for my Chevelle
was a 2 speed automatic known as the Powerglide. It just happen to come with one installed. That's a big reason I chose the
Chevelle. The Powerglide has become one of the racers favorite transmissions. The reason being its low rotating mass and its
durability. When doing an EV conversion most go manual because they think it is more efficient. I want the Powerglide so I
won't have to worry about shifting and clutches and such. Installing an Electric motor with a manual transmission you can
go with the clutch and flywheel or you can go clutchless. There is difference of opinion from the experts on which is best.
Before the Chevelle I converted a Kia to electric and went clutchless and it shifted fine and quick. And the installation
was a lot simpler and quicker. Some conversion people go without a transmission at all but I believe that is not the way to
go.
So the 2 speed Powerglide
Transmission is what I shall use. There will be lots of measuring and machining to do but I believe it will be worth it. I
purchased the book " How to Build a Racing Powerglide" and another Powerglide book and read them and am learning how to modify
and build the Powerglide.
| The Powerglide's internal mass is small |
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| I will also modify the Powerglide to be Direct Drive and run without the torque converter |
| Powerglide all bolted to Electric Motor and tested |
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| Information on building a Powerglide without a torque converter is limited, talk to all you can |
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What I did to my Powerglide
I cut the torque converter in half with a band
saw and had a machine shop torch out the center part that turns the tranny pump. Cut off the tranny input shaft to meet up
with the electric motor shaft. Designed piece of metal to connect motor to tranny input shaft and tranny pump. Had machine
shop weld it up. Cut stator support off of front pump with band saw. Drilled holes in front pump for more lubrication for
thrust washer. Took out 2 of the five reverse frictions and the wave steel and replaced with 3 steels. High drum was left
all original and never disassembled. Will modify next time I tear down the tranny. (This has now
been modified. On my 4th 1/8 mile run, the original cast clutch hub exploded in many pieces. I replaced it with
a lightened steel clutch hub and installed grooved racing frictions. Also removed the wave steels and replaced with regular
steels and readjusted clearance to race specs.) Installed Transgo kit to make Full Manual and drilled holes in metal
spacer between valve body halfs. Did "not" install higher pressure spring. I used all the original seals and rings and did
not want the higher pressure at this time. Removed rear pump and governor and installed roller bearing Governor support. When
I can afford it I will install cast aluminum deep pan and roller bearing tail housing. (This has now been
done. The roller bearing tail housing and aluminum deep pan have been installed as of 10/06) Removed cooler bypass
valve and downshift timing valve from front pump. Pluged up cooler lines. (Not sure of this procedure, but I thought I read
it somewhere) I have been told that a small hose should be connected between in and out cooler lines when not using a
cooler. Removed filter and running without one for less restriction. Futher modifications depends on how this one
lasts on the track. This was the first time I ever attemped to build or modify an automatic transmission. Anyone could do
this if they read and study the books on the Powerglide. A Poorman does not Give Up!
| GE Motor to Powerglide |
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| Not a bad match |
| First contemplations of how to adapt |
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| The poorman must take the time to plan something and then do it without hesitation |
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| My first adaptor shaft from Motor to Powerglide |
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| The bolt holding the shaft and the motor coupler eventually broke and I had to have it welded up |
| Here's what happened to the original Clutch Hub |
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| The was replaced with a steel lightened Hub |
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